browsing the ‘user submitted’ photo section of the site Chuck came across this little nugget of himself at a fun little spot in San Clemente…I paddled out to join him shortly after this, but apparently there was a little bodysurfing, blonde-haired grom snapping pictures with his GoPro….sicky!
I recently met Jeff surfing at the San Clemente pier. The guy friggin rips. He is usually one of the first guys out in the AM, and you can often find him still out after dark depending on how good the waves are. He has taken a job that allows him the flexibility to surf anytime it’s good, and from the few conversations we’ve had the only other thing I’ve seen him as passionate about as surfing is his son Jonah.
Jeff often has a GoPro camera with him, and he gets some pretty mental footage out there.
Looking at the results I was amped to see that Kelly Slater made the final but a bit surprised by the point differential. Maybe they had finally started making Kelly surf with one hand tied behind his back? But as I would soon come to find out via the heat replay and as Mick Fanning described, “You were either in the spot or you weren’t, and I was fortunate enough to be there for a couple.”
Mick in the right spot, here
Mick, more than just being in the right spot at the right time, looked solid and smooth all contest, especially in the unpredictable dredging barrels. He was criticised when he won his first world title because the conditions that year were particularly unfavorable, but as we have since seen in Tahiti, and this season at France (against Slater no less), he looks comfortable and poised in the big stuff. With just three contests left (Portugal, Puerto Rico & Pipe) we have on our hands a legitimate title race in arguably one of the best world tour seasons, EVER.
With every surfer in Southern California frothing on the swell that just hit I was amped to get a call from a good friend to surf up Central Coast. Metered parking and crowded line-ups were soon replaced by Chris Malloy on a twin fin fish and seals that had just been bitten by sharks. I’m not going to say exactly where we surfed but we did risk a $1,200 fine just by going there, and frick man, it was worth the risk. Having not gone to bed the night before and being the first ones in the line-up I was dry heaving between waves, further demonstrating the absolute sickness of the situation.
Yewwww…Day 1 of the Hurley Pro Trestles went down yesterday in mostly clean 3-to-4 foot surf. Highlights included Dane Reynolds making the OG layback look like a new school maneuver, Kelly being Kelly, and Jadson Andre, despite having a horrifyingly-wicked style, stuck a pretty mean air reverse.
I was quick to think the Hurley/Nike machine, and former pro-dad Dino, pushed Kolohe Andino too soon into the big show, as he was publicly flogged in his Round 2 Heat vs Dane Reynolds. But in fact 16-yr old Kolohe wasn’t gifted entrance into the event, he earned his wildcard spot by winning the Hurley Pro Trials at the US Open. He’s young and has all of the right support; it should be interesting to see this ‘professional surfing prince’s’ progression.
The comp is off for today and is looking to pick back up later in the week with solid swell forecasted to hit the coast.